Corked

August 16 to 18 – Cork

Conas tá tú?

It was difficult to leave Galway, I had met so many lovely people and still wanted to explore some shops (and food!), but I awoke on Tuesday morning with the annoying realization that my trip was coming to a close. One week today I would be back in London boarding my flight home. Inspired by some conversations I had been having I talked to a woman in a shop, got myself a little sign, a set out to try my hand at hitch-hiking, “thumbing” as they call it here. I met a few lovely people along the way who directed me to a great locale to get picked up. After meeting some fellow hitchers we found a great spot and within minutes I had a ride with Kevin, middle-aged Cork native who had been in Connemara for business, and we chatted the entire 4.5hour drive.  We stopped for some fantastic Irish ice cream, he gave me a list of Cork “must-sees” and I was in my hostel before supper time.

I disposed of my things and dashed out in hopes of making it to the English Market before 18:00, but most of the vendors had closed up before 17:30 so I wandered around until I spotted a Tesco. €20 earned me shrimp, rice, produce, and a bottle of wine. Back at the hostel I impressed more than a few eyes with my simple (to me) garlic shrimp in a white wine sauce and made friends with another Kevin who taught me some phrases in Irish. It was a rare evening for me, spending it in the hostel relaxing and talking to my fellow travellers. I even drank enough wine to speak in french with Eric who lives in the south of France but has spent 3 weeks for the last two summers in English classes in Ireland. All in all, it was an evening well spent and I arose early the next morn.

On Wednesday I took the 8:50 train to Midleton, County Cork and sauntered into the Jameson distillery just in time for the 10:00 tour. It was a perfect Irish day, drizzling and grey skies, causing the greenery to rise dramatically from the ancient brick that contrasted so beautifully with the dull skies.

It was a very interesting tour with a hefty dose of Jameson propaganda, but still enjoyable. We were given a drink at the end of the tour and I opted to also do the whiskey tasting, comparing American, Scottish, and Irish whiskey. I soon realized that as enjoyable as that was, 4oz is a lot of whiskey to have before noon so I headed out to a cafe recommended to me by a staff member.

I made it back to Cork just after noon and spent the day discovering the city. I found myself heading towards the University campus (as Kevin had eagerly suggested) and found the entrance.

The campus only became more magical past the gates. Breathtaking river walks, an art gallery, hidden steps, vines, stones, and absolute  stillness.

 

 

Kevin had encouraged me to wander through the Everyman Theatre in the city centre and discovered they had a performance that evening. After much debate, I asked the front desk if they would make a phone call for me and the kindly rotund hostel worker exclaimed “you must go to the opera!”.  My surprise at his enthusiasm must have been on my face for he went on to explain how his wife had dragged him along and he spent the entire evening in a jaw-dropped stupor. So I believed him and dashed through the rain to the Cork Opera House for a little date with self. I went to Prodijig: The Revolution, a dance performance based in Riverdance but blending in hip-hop, jazz, and some big Broadway style numbers. It was and incredible and energizing performance, great use of a simple set, and a 3 member band that would wander out and play during set changes. Here is just a little taste:

 

Alas, I awoke Thursday morning feeling drained and somber. It was time to head to Dublin, my last stop on this trip and only 4 short days before I began my homeward journey. But! There was still more of Cork to see. I checked my bag in a locker at the hostel and headed to the Church of Ste. Anne and the Shandon Bells. This church was originally formed in the 17th century and then destroyed in the Battle of Liscarroll at the beginning of the 11-years war. The only surviving article of that church is a baptismal font dated 1647 that now stands in the current structure. The Shandon Bells that sit at the top of the church are an icon for the city and proved to be a fun adventure!

 

After ringing the bells and being rewarded with the 360 view, I wandered next down and across the river to another church: St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral. St. Fin was designed by William Burgess and opened in 1879. An incredible display of gothic Victorian architecture and a fun, brief, and informative tour.

And that was that. I stopped for one last Corkish ice cream before heading to the bus station and on to Dublin.

• Shevy

 

I know I know, I’ve been home for a week. I will have the rest of my adventures up soon – promise!